EXPRESSION COSMÉTIQUE: The Cosmetic Ingredients Guide 2020
Introduction
In the modern era of cosmetic skin care, scientists are expanding into areas of research previously not considered, including epigenetics – the modulation of gene expression without changes in the actual gene sequence of a person’s DNA.
Here we introduce a botanically derived active ingredient, DermalRx® Acetygen™, that exhibits beneficial epigenetic activity.
Epigenetics
A new era of cosmetic care ingredients is on the horizon with active ingredients that deliver beneficial epigenetic effects. Some target microRNAs that modulate post-transcriptional gene expression to up- and down-regulate endogenous proteins implicated in skin health. Other seek to impact the regulations of histone acetylation that can modify gene expression at the genomic level. The latter approach is the focus of this article.
The vast lengths of genomic DNA are compacted by winding the strands around cylindrical protein molecules called histones. When tightly wound around histones, gene expression is impeded, which can be counteracted by post-translationally modifying the histone proteins with acetyl groups via enzymes called histone acetyl transferases (HATs). This loosens the DNA from the histones and allows chromatin remodeling proteins and transcription factors to stimulate expression of certain gene sequences. Conversely, enzymes called histone deacetylases (HDACs) catalyze the removal of the acetyl groups and reverse the process. Natural and synthetic HDAC compounds exist that are collectively known as HDAC inhibitors (HDACi), which help to maintain histones in an acetylated state and by extension promote gene expression. Considerable research has been conducted to identify, characterize, and harness the power of HDACis by both the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Here, we introduce DermalRx® Acetygen™ whose active ingredient is a naturally occurring HDACi from two botanically derived materials, which positively affects the expression of multiple beneficial gene products.
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